![]() ![]() Now tighten the clamp nut and see if it is secure. Try loosing up the post clamp nut so it is very loose, then use a large socket and gently tap the clamp down onto the post. First, make sure the post clamp is fully seated all the way to the bottom of the battery post. ![]() ![]() The factory battery post clamps are made of light duty stamped sheetmetal, and are easy to damage. It is loose and causing weird electrical issues. My factory post clamps won't get tight enough on the battery post. If you accidentally drain your cranking battery, that's when you'd use the boost button to jump start yourself from the second battery. It 'isolates' the 2 batteries from each other, to protect your cranking battery from being drained by your aftermarket accessories that you have wired up to the bus bars. The isolator does not turn off power to the fuse box. The factory positive wire harness feeds power directly to your fuse box, which means all of the factory circuits are powered from your cranking battery. I thought the system would turn off the cranking battery to protect it from getting too low. I left my headlights/radio/dome lights turned on, and now the engine won't crank. This way the trickle charger works just like your alternator - it will charge the cranking battery first for a couple minutes, then the smart isolator links the batteries together to charge the aux battery as well. You can connect a charger to your factory positive wire on the cranking battery and the factory negative wire on the aux battery. How do I connect a trickle charger to keep both batteries charged? As long as the panel is big enough to keep up with the demand and charge up the battery, then our smart isolator will link them together, and the solar will flow over to the cranking battery as well The solar charge will go into your aux battery first to replace the power used by your accessories. You can connect the solar charge controller directly to our power and ground bus bars. Most people want to use solar panels to be able to run their accessories for as long as possible with the engine off. The protective cover flips up for easy access for routing your wires.Ĥ - New Heavy Duty Cables Higher solid copper strand count for more current carrying capacity and more flexibility Thicker insulating jacket for even more protection from the elements Heavy duty adhesive lined heat shrink protects the wire from corrosion Tin-plated copper lugs and post clamps for superior conductivity Any accessories connected to the bus bars will run from the Aux battery and will not drain down the cranking battery. Lighter gauge wires such as LED lights, CB, etc, can use the 3 small screws for connecting #10 sized ring terminals. The green halo light will turn on to indicate the batteries are connected, and the light will be off when the batteries are separated.ģ - New bus bars Now includes 3 tall studs and 3 small screws for power & ground wire connections Different stud sizes 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8" give you more flexibility for connecting your heavy duty accessory cables such as a winch, stereo amplifier, air compressor, fuse panels, etc. Note the alternator will not charge the Aux battery while in this mode. Use this when you want to leave the batteries isolated for any reason. 'Off' mode will manually separate the batteries. Use this to jump start the engine when the cranking battery is low, or manually provide extra run time to your accessories by using both batteries together. 'On' mode will manually connect the batteries together. 2 - New boost button Now includes 3 user-selectable modes - Auto, On, and Off 'Auto' mode automatically connects batteries when either one is above 13.1v for 90 seconds, and disconnects them when they drop below 12.7v for 30 seconds. ![]()
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